KTM’s need a little more sag than most bikes because it’s important to keep the rear from loading the front suspension during braking. We recommend 110mm of rider sag for almost all KTM applications. For the bike sag we recommend 35mm-45mm. If you’re riding a 2003 or 2004 KTM, don’t set rider sag. Simply set your free sag at 35-40mm and ride it if you have the correct spring. Don’t compress thetop-out spring! If your bike rides low or high, change springs accordingly with the free sag always the same. The reason for this is the top-out spring compresses as you add preload which increases the swingarm angle, and rear suspension length. Attempting to do rider sag is a vicious circle.

 

Do we shorten the stroke on KTM’s?

Only on the 03 models. Once you fix the shock with our CLP valving system, the bike will ride lower under braking, curing the pitch forward most riders tried to fix by lowering the back.

 

It’s simple. There is almost no rise in the shock to wheel ratio. This means that when the wheel is compressed at constant rate the shock compresses at a nearly constant rate. On a linkage bike the linkage varies this ratio slowly and subtly through the stroke making the shock move faster (increasing the damping force) and decreasing the mechanical advantage. A decreasing mechanical advantage means the shock spring force is becoming stiffer as it is measured at the wheel. This is, by definition, PROGRESSIVE! It baffles me that a straight rate spring functions as a progressive in a linkage bike, and that KTM puts a straight rate on a progression-less system in an attempt to make it work more like a linkage… D’oH! Ok Homer, go back to the nuclear plant and leave the suspension design to the experts.

 

What are the differences between the MX-TECH progressive, and the others?

The MX-TECH progressive shock spring is made in Holland. Not Oklahoma, not California, or Taiwan. The MX-TECH progressive springs are continuously progressive. Meaning they start light and become stiffer with each unit of deflection. The others are inconsistent, not continuously progressive, or just plain sub-par.

 

 We don’t recommend them. They are straight rate.

 

If you’re on a current model bike most likely the stock springs are good to go, and the valving is soft which can lead to bottoming issues. In the 80’s, suspension did not have much for technology and the most effective tuning for the bike was changing spring rates. However, today we have much more effective measures of tuning the bike. Good theory dictates that you chose springs that support the riders weight, and give us the correct geometry with a given preload. If you want more travel use, or less, once the bike is in motion, springs won’t do much to help you. You need to adjust other aspects of the suspension.

 

 

 No, you can’t just do a revalve. Without the springs, we can’t get the basic chassis parameters correct and with a bike in that state the rest of it is a waste of time. So take heart, get the correct springs, and don’t worry about the revalve. When you’re ready we can still do a revalve. Ride, have fun, come back later.

 

 

Yes you can as long as your changes are balanced. It may not be perfect but its better than a revalve and no springs, and you can’t see what you have until you’ve made the spring changes.

 

 HA! No we don’t. We don’t need to sell you a pressure spring and then sell you another main spring to end back up where you started. The pressure spring simply adds to your overall spring rate, plus a small factor of preload. We won’t charge you $40 to waste your time.